See the end of this section for free plans to make a wooden block to hold and organize the pieces of your step block set.
Look in any machine shop supply catalog and you will find hold-down sets that consist of step blocks with corresponding clamps that use T-nuts and studs. This is a very practical way to solve one of the more difficult problems that come up in the machine trades; that is, clamping a part to the table. I am sorry I didn't get around to manufacturing these sooner, but there always seemed to be a more pressing problem to solve until now.
Not much is required in the way of instructions in order to use these clamps. A few illustrations are included to give you some tips. The biggest problem you can create for yourself is overtightening the nut and damaging the T-slots on your mill table. You have to realize that you are stronger than your machine when you have both the lever (wrench) and the screw working to your advantage (or disadvantage).
In addition to the threaded studs we provide, 10-32 threaded stock can be purchased from most industrial suppliers and cut to length if you need a longer piece. We have also provided an extra, non-anodized section of step block extrusion for you to cut up into smaller step blocks and machine flat should you need them. (See Figure 3.)
A nice feature of this set that you won't find even in more expensive, full-size sets is the radiused nut and washer. They allow the nut to pull the washer down flat on the clamp even when it is slightly tilted. I appreciate this kind of detail and felt our customers would too.
Joe Martin, President and Owner
Sherline Products Inc.
FIGURE 1-On the left (or top) is shown the correct way to hold a part. The tip of the clamp should pull down on the part. On the right (or bottom) is shown the incorrect way to hold a part, with the clamp angling upward and pushing down on the edge of the part. (The angles are exaggerated for illustration purposes. The many steps on the block will allow you to get your actual setup much closer to level.)
FIGURE 2-The blocks can also be stacked as shown to hold tall parts. (For parts taller than 3", a longer piece of 10-32 threaded stock will be required.)
FIGURE 3-The unanodized block can be cut with a bandsaw or a hacksaw and milled into smaller blocks. On the left is shown a pattern for two equal 10-step blocks. On the right, the block is cut into a smaller 8-step and a larger 12-step block. The cross-hatched area of material is removed. The full block actually has 21 steps, one of which is lost to the horizontal cut. After sawing, mill the cut surfaces flat.
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NO. REQ. |
PART NO. |
DESCRIPTION |
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2 |
30134 |
Step Block (anodized) |
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2 |
30133 |
Extended 10-32 T-nut |
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2 |
30135 |
Step Clamp |
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2 |
30136 |
Step Block Nut |
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2 |
30137 |
Step Block Nut Washer |
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2 |
30138 |
10-32 x 1" Stud |
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|
1 |
30139 |
Step Block (unanodized) |
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2 |
30141 |
10-32 x 1.5" Stud |
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|
2 |
30142 |
10-32 x 2" Stud |
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|
2 |
30143 |
10-32 x 2.5" Stud |
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|
2 |
30144 |
10-32 x 3" Stud |
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|
2 |
30145 |
10-32 x 3.5" Stud |
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|
2 |
30561 |
10-32 T-nut |
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FREE PLANS...Make a wooden block to hold your step block set
Full-size step block sets usually are held in a metal tray or box that keeps all the small parts together. You can make a wooden block to hold the parts of your step block set as a simple afternoon project. Use a fine-grained hardwood such as maple, Honduras mahogany, birch or white oak. You could also use a block of aluminum if you have one available and want some milling practice. Cut the pockets and drill the holes using your milling machine. Hold the block with the step block set as you work on it. Finish the wood with Tung oil, varnish or polyurethane finish for a nice looking and practical addition to your shop. Click on the link below to download plans for one possible way to make a holder for your step block set. The plan is a .pdf file that requires Adobe Acrobat to open.
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